- Paragliding in Linzhou
- What is Linzhou?
- Why go there
- How I ended up there
- The competition
- Flying site
- Flying conditions
- Landing
- Who should go there
- When to go
- How to go
- Getting to the hill
- Local contacts
- Accommodation in Linzhou
- Food in Linzhou
- Entertainment in Linzhou
- Healthcare
- Conclusion
 Paragliding in Linzhou
This page has practical information about Linzhou, China. I (J.F. Tremblay) went there October 2002, and this is what I found.
I arrived Friday Oct. 11 2002 in the evening, and left Sunday Oct. 13 in the evening. Obviously, one cannot get complete information from such a short stay. But one gets a whole lot more information about the site than by staying in Hong Kong.
What is Linzhou?
Linzhou is the location for what is the best site for paragliding discovered in China so far. It's a town of one million, but the city proper has 200,000. The other 800,000 are in the surrounding countryside, or so the government there says. It doesn't feel like there's one million people around there though.
The center of Linzhou
Why go there
You need to see the photos. It's paragliding pornography. If you see the site, you'll want to fly there no matter the hurdles.
How I ended up there
I went as "tourist pilot" at an international competition organized in Linzhou. I figured that transportation to take-off and retrieve would be arranged (it was). Unexpectedly, there were some worldclass pilots there: some of the top pilots in Switzerland and a member of the French national team (Stephane Wyss). Interacting with them was really the best thing about going there this times.
The competition
It was very well organized. I didn't see the opening ceremony except on Linzhou TV on Sunday night, but it was a 3-hour extravaganza in a stadium where there were twenty thousand people or more. There was a dance and singing show at the opening ceremony. Every morning after, there was a police car preceding the convoy going to take off. Spectators were cordoned off the take off area. The competition was won by a young German Swiss pilot that I only know as Stephan (yes, another Stephan) who presently ranks about 35 worldwide. Number two was Swiss Stephan's younger brother Simon. Swiss Stephan would do loops above take off when he wasn't competing. One Beijing pilot did quite well also.
Pre-competition briefing.
Flying site
It's really spectacular. I've never seen the Grand Canyon in the U.S. except in photos. This site looks somewhat like that. There are sheer cliffs that you can fly along or above for some 300 km (the competition never went that far). The cliffs are about 800m. The take off is at about 1000m. One flies for about 200m above a long shallow and grassy slope before reaching the edge of the cliff. So, there are a few seconds just after take off for one to look at the glider and sit properly in the harness before hitting the big air over the edge of the cliff. One lays out the glider on grass.
The point of the photo is that it shows both the cliff and the slope for taking off.
Flying conditions
I think the best description I heard is from the French national pilot who said that the site has "complex aerology." A combination of the topography of the cliffs, the thermals, valley winds, and leeside thermals means that anything can happen when you are flying. The thermals can easily go in the 10ms, and you don't need to actually fly to know that: just looking at a photo of the site is enough. The strong thermals mean that one can easily achieve enormous gains in height, to 1500m above take off. My one flight there was really special because of the scenery even though I didn't get up to much. Encountering very strange and completely still air, one of the competitors flying above me was ready to throw his reserve at one point whereas another one had a spin above take off which she recovered from by a fast stall.
There were many problems with the conditions when I was there. There was some kind of fog in the air, so I never saw the cliffs on the opposite site of the canyon. I don't know why the air wasn't clear and could not find out the reason despite asking the locals. I suspect that it's because farmers burn their fields at this time of year and cause an aerosol over Henan. The fog did not look like it was caused by humidity like in Taiwan.
On Saturday 12, the air was all over the place and glider wouldn't stay laid out because of dust devils. The French National pilot took off first (and against his best judgment) to test the conditions so as to prevent injuries among the low-hour Chinese pilots who were competing. After a huge deflation, he quickly suffered the most spectacular crash I have ever seen. He ended up hanging on the cliff face in front of takeoff where we rescued him. He only had a minor foot injury. I was his interpreter at the hospital. It was his first ever paragliding injury.
Landing
There are lots of fields. After landing, one is surrounded by kids and villagers. It's really nice. The peasants are incredibly friendly, even more than in south Taiwan. I played Frisbee with the kids, they'd never seen one. It was really fun.
Who should go there
I'd say advanced pilots on 1-2 gliders. But it's a personal assessment based on 2 days there only.
When to go
The locals recommend May, June, and September, and no later than the 2nd half of October. I am guessing that the air turns dirty or foggy at some point in October every year because of the farmers who burn their fields. In May and June, one can expect the strongest conditions. I guess it's madness to fly there in mid-day in July. Then again, one local told me that during the summer, it's OK to take off say at 09:00 or 10:00 in the morning, land when it gets too strong at about noon, and have another go later in the afternoon (you'd need to leave the hotel in Linzhou around 0630 to do that). I'd say the 2nd half of September is best.
How to go
I flew to Zhengzhou and then hired a car at the airport for a 4-hour drive to Linzhou. I did this by looking at the map of China: Zhengzhou is the closest airport to Linzhou. I will not do that again. One should take a soft-sleeper train to Anyang, it's far less brutal than what I did even though one is traveling longer. From HK, the train to Anyang takes about 25 hours. It's long but it's safe and comfortable. From Beijing, it's about 5 hours on the train. From Anyang, it's about 1 hour to Linzhou. Either take a taxi, or there are buses leaving from the station. By the way, Anyang has to be the dirtiest city I have ever seen, and I have traveled reasonably. It's because of a huge steel works employing 100,000 and some power plants, all burning coal.
Getting to the hill
From Linzhou, it's about a three-hour drive to get to take-off. That consists of 1 hour on paved road, and 2 hours on a one-lane road on the cliff-side. A few years ago, pilots sat (or stood) in the bin of a gravel truck to get to the top. Minivans are more likely now. This could be because there are more minivans in Linzhou now. Or the road to the top has been improved enough for normal vehicles to go through.
Local contacts
You'll need local assistance. I met a bunch of people. Speaking Chinese makes things much easier, but the local people assured me that they can dig up an interpreter if needed. Local pilots are extremely keen to get visiting pilots, and I am sure that their prices are extremely reasonable (I did not ask). Here are few contacts:
- Zhen Guang Yu (characters: the usual Chinese surname Zhen, first character of Guangzhou, Jade): Young and extremely enthusiastic local pilot. Can set up a car, guiding service, and interpreter. Call at 86-372-686-0918. Mobile: 86-135-034-62673. Nickname: Xiao Hong Hong (Little red red).
- Mr. Qin: head of local flying association: 86-136-086-25169.
- Chang Zhen Zhong: Older local pilot, about 50. Looks like ex-military. 86-136-239-22655.
You can also hook up with some of the clubs in Beijing. They organize trips to Linzhou a few times every year.
Accommodation in Linzhou
I stayed at the Linzhou Hotel. The Chinese name is Linzhou Bing-guan. It's apparently the best hotel in the city proper. It's not great, the bed sheets are clean, there is hot water, and their food didn't make me sick (but it was awful). One local told me there is a new hotel out of the city proper and that it's a nicer place to stay. Worth checking out. At Linzhou hotel, I think the rooms are about RMB300/night (I paid the organizers of the competition).
Food in Linzhou
Noodles, various varieties of dumplings, various Chinese food, and very good fruit. The most surprising for me were the Turkish-cuisine restaurants where one can order a leg of lamb and kebabs (as well as standard-fare Chinese food); that was excellent. A Turkish-style dinner extravaganza for 6 costs RMB 120 (HK$110).
Entertainment in Linzhou
It's got to have some of the most bored people in the world. In the city proper, people wander the streets looking for any kind of entertainment. In that context, a foreigner (white or not) is hugely entertaining. Foreigners have different clothing, different haircuts, etc. Anyone stopping to talk with the locals is quickly surrounded.
There's a lot of girls. Saunas, massage, "music centers", KTVs. The girls also routinely ring all the rooms in the hotel at night, but the phone in the rooms at the Linzhou hotel can thankfully be disconnected. Henan has lots of Aids and Chinese condoms suffer from poor quality, proceed with caution (I'd recommend abstaining).
I had a bad headache one morning after drinking just a few beers. Best take 1-2 bottles of good stuff along if you'll be there a week or two.
Bring books too. You may have time to read.
Henan is a a part of China that has been densely populated for a few thousand years. There should be some historical sites in the area.
Healthcare
I'd say the rescue itself is the most difficult part. If someone crashes and no one sees, the consequences could be very severe. It's better to fly where other pilots can always see you. Even if the down pilot is seen, it can be very difficult to reach the spot. After the pilot is pulled out, it can be up to 3-hour drive to Linzhou. In Linzhou, they have hospitals that appear to offer an acceptable level of service (I'd feel quite relieved upon reaching that hospital if I were injured). But the hospitals are basic facilities offering cost-efficient healthcare for the locals.
Be careful that they always use new syringes. That's how a bunch of Henan farmers reportedly got Aids.
It's a quiet town. So, there are many onlookers when the doctor writes out a prescription.
Conclusion
Linzhou is worth a visit if you go at the right time of year. You'll need at least one week (9 days including 2 weekends) to make it worthwhile. As said before, very experienced pilots should go there, not low-hour pilots. You'd better fly on DHV 1 or 1-2 wings.
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